A DAY IN
7 GREAT AMERICAN CITIES

from a 'Condé Nast Traveler' EXTRA

(Boston * Chicago * Los Angeles * New York * San Francisco * Seattle * Washington)

The pick of sights, museums, dining, hotels when traveling in and out of a city, either on a flight or cruise or for a special day trip. Here are some ideas for a 'different' day in seven great American cities. For more information, contact our Vacation & Cruise Specialists!

Boston    Chicago     Los Angeles    New York
San Francisco    Seattle    Washington

ED00172_.WMF (2700 bytes)BOOKSTORE    FD00568_.WMF (1492 bytes)CAFE    BS00996_.WMF (1766 bytes)HOTEL    BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes)MUSEUM/GALLERY
WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes)NIGHTLIFE     wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes)RESTAURANT    IN00022_.WMF (7324 bytes)SHOPPING   EN00614_.WMF (11092 bytes)THEATER

BOSTON

While following in the footsteps of our Founding Fathers, here's how to opt for a bit of boutique shopping in Back Bay, a stroll on the Commons and a very big martini.

8 a.m.
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BS00996_.WMF (1766 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) The restaurant at the Beacon Hill Hotel on Charles Street offers breakfast and the perfect location to begin your day.

9 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) The nineteenth-century townhouses that  overlook Louisburg Square were once the homes of Boston Brahmins and Acorn Street, paved with cobblestones, is one of the most picturesque in a neighborhood full of charm.

10 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes)The streets north of Pinckney were long the home of a community of free blacks - Frederick Douglass and Sojourner Truth both argued for abolition at the African Meeting House, unofficial headquarters of the Underground Railroad.

11:30 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes) Since its construction in 1798, the gold-domed State House has been one of the city's most prominent landmarks.

Noon
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) Many of the sights associated with the Revolutionary War lie to the east of Boston Common - the Granary Burying Ground is the final resting place of Samuel Adams, John Hancock and the victims of the Boston Massacre, which took place in front of the Old State House.

1 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) Stop for lunch at Lock-Ober, an 1875 landmark. The service is white glove and the menu unapologetically old-fashioned, with steak tartare and baked Alaska among the specialties!

2:30 p.m.
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Take a leisurely stroll through the Common, America's oldest public park.

3:30 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) Back Bay is a nineteenth-century development modeled on the grand boulevards of Paris - Commonwealth Avenue, with its leafy meridian dotted with statues, is the city's stately homage to the Champs-Elysees.

4 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) Newberry Street and its side streets are lined with boutiques, including a "must-browse" for shoppers - the upscale clothier Louis Boston.

5 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) The work of two of America's architectural giants graces Copley Square: the Romanesque Trinity Church, by Henry Hobson Richardson and the Renaissance Revival Boston Public Library, by McKim, Mead and White.

6 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BS00996_.WMF (1766 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes)The Oak Bar at the Fairmont Copley Plaza, a popular meeting place since the 1930s, serves generous martinis in a grand hotel setting.

7:30 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) Bostonian cuisine is not just about chowda anymore, as you'll discover if you order the polenta with salt cod or the pappardelle with boar at the new and popular Via Matta (reserve in advance; 617-422-008).

10 p.m.
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TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes) No day in Boston would be complete without a visit to an Irish bar. End your evening with the young Irish crowd at J.J. Foley's, where the friendly bartenders pour a proper pint of Guinness.

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CHICAGO

Make the "Second City", "first" - it's where you can explore soaring architecture and world-class art museums, as well as stop for a pie that's one of Chicago's most famous culinary inventions.

9 a.m.
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Begin your day at Museum Campus, home of the Field Museum, the Shedd Aquarium and the Adler Planetarium, whose neoclassical grandeur reflects the cultural ambitions and commercial might of the city's early civic leaders.

9:45 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) Stroll along the lakeshore to Buckingham Fountain. The world's largest - it pumps 14,000 gallons per minute.

10 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes) The Art Institute houses many masterpieces, including Seurat's Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte and dreamlike stained glass windows by Chagall.

11:45 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) The cool modernism of the curvy, bronze-mirrored Lake Point Tower, based on a 1920 design by Mies van der Rohe (and finally built in 1968); contrasts sharply with the theme-park diversions of Navy Pier.

Noon
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes)The Chicago River threads its way through a veritable canyon of showplace architecture. Highlights include the brilliant white Wrigley Building, the Gothic Revival Tribune Tower and The Jetsons-like pinnacles of Marina City.

1 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) Pizzeria Due is the larger offshoot of Pizzeria Uno, where Chicago's signature deep-dish pie was invented in 1943. Avoid a wait by ordering yours in advance - the thick crust has to bake for 45 minutes. (312)-943-2400).

2 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes) The Museum of Contemporary Art hosts innovative exhibitions by rising stars. The cafe - a perfect spot for a quick break - overlooks a serene sculpture garden.

3:45 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) The John Hancock Center's observation platform has great views of Lake Michigan and the skyline.

4:30 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BS00996_.WMF (1766 bytes) Just beyond the Jazz Age landmark Drake Hotel, Oak Street Beach is prime summer real estate for the toned and tanned.

5 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) IN00022_.WMF (7324 bytes) All the trappings for Chicago's Gold Coast lifestyle can be acquired in the boutiques around Oak and Rush streets. One of the best is Ikram, for designer wear by As Four and McQueen.

6:30 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) Chicago is a city not only of "big shoulders", in the words of Carl Sandburg, but also of big buildings and big public art. A 50-foot-tall Picasso sculpture occupies Daley Plaza (pictured above) and monumental works by Calder and Dubeffet are within a few blocks.

7:30 p.m.
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TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) The once-industrial West Loop neighborhood, near the expressway, is now home to a booming restaurant scene. Eat dinner in the sleek, minimalist Blackbird, which serves contemporary French-American cuisine.

9:30 p.m.
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TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) Save room for Sugar, a new dessert bar specializing in decadent after-dinner treats such as 'Remains of the Parfait' and 'Banana Karenina'.

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LOS ANGELES

9 a.m.
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car.wmf (7222 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) At the popular West Hollywood eatery Hugo's, the breakfast crowd arrives fresh from appointments with their personal trainers. Order a tofu scramble for a healthy start to your day.

10 a.m.
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car.wmf (7222 bytes) IN00022_.WMF (7324 bytes) Look like a starlet by shopping with the A-list at Fred Segal. Other must-stops for clothes hounds include Naked, for the fearlessly fashion-forward and Kbond, for stylish casual menswear (think Fred Perry and Paul Smith).

11:30 a.m.

car.wmf (7222 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes) Temporary exhibitions at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art provide insights into the Golden State's history, while the permanent collection is especially strong on Latin American and Asian works. The plaster mammoths trapped in the La Brea Tar Pits provide the perfect California-kitsch photo op.

1:30 a.m.
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car.wmf (7222 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) Before lunching at the celebrity-studded Ivy, swing by Beverly Hills' famed center of conspicuous consumption, Rodeo Drive.

3 p.m.

car.wmf (7222 bytes) Drop by Book Soup to pick up some poolside reading. In addition to its hardcover selection, L.A.'s best independent bookstore has racks of periodicals ranging from literary journals to Dutch fashion magazines.

4 p.m.
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car.wmf (7222 bytes) If you want to soak up some California sun before your night out, grab a chaise longue by your hotel's pool (or arrive, towel in hand, at a Sunset Strip favorite and act like you own the place).

5 p.m.
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car.wmf (7222 bytes) In the last few years, several of Tinseltown's older sights have gotten a good scrubbing (check out the renovated Egyptian Theater) and a few new attractions have opened, including the Kodak Theater, home to the Oscars ceremony. That said, some things never change: You can still search for your idol's star while dodging costumed Supermen and Marilyn Monroes posing for the tourists.

6 p.m.
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car.wmf (7222 bytes) From the Griffith Park Observatory, made universally familiar in Rebel Without a Cause, take in the view of the west side of the City of Angels.

7:30 p.m.
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car.wmf (7222 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) The neighborhood of Los Feliz is trendy but not glitzy, with low-key eateries and plenty of nightlife options that don't require talking your way past a velvet rope. Start your evening with an early dinner of spicy curry at the popular Electric Lotus, a popular Indian restaurant.

9:30 p.m.
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car.wmf (7222 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes) Young hipsters and longtime regulars rub elbows at the venerable Dresden Room, which has managed to maintain its unique charm despite its big-screen appearance in Swingers.

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NEW YORK

8:30 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) Wake up with a walk through Central Park, designed by the legendary Frederic Law Olmsted 150 years ago and wind up at the Delacorte Clock. At the top of the hour, a bear with a tambourine leads an animal parade in a dance around the base, marking the start of your day.

9:15 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) The quintessential diner, Viand is the size of a boxcar and the service can be brusque. Make like a local and grab a seat at the counter for a mouthwatering breakfast.

10 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) IN00022_.WMF (7324 bytes) With more designers under one roof than any other store in town, Barneys New York is a shopping mecca and the starting line for your fashion crawl up Madison Avenue.

11 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) A little museum with a big collection, the Frick has outstanding works by the great masters, from El Greco to Titian.

1 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes)wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) Lunch at "21," a New York institution since its days as a speakeasy during Prohibition. Come dressed for the occasion: Jacket and tie - like reservations - are required (212) 582-7200).

3 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) After lunch, gaze up at the original modernist glass box (the Crysler Building) - Ludwig Miles van der Rohe and Philip Johnson's exquisite 1958 skyscraper.

3:30 p.m.
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TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) IN00022_.WMF (7324 bytes) Anchor for the thriving contemporary arts scene that drifted to Chelsea from SoHo over the last decade, the Dia Center is worth a stop for its permanent collection as well as its excellent bookshop. While you're in the neighborhood, pop into top galleries Gagosian and Matthew Marks.

5 p.m.
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TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) Take a break from your cultural pursuits with coffee or an aperitif at Pastis, a popular bistro in the seedy-chic Meatpacking District.

6:30 p.m.
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TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) The imposing walls around Old St. Patrick's Cathedral, a reminder of the city's Gangs of New York past, once protected the Catholic parishioners. Note the juxtaposition of one-of-a-kind boutiques and old Italian delis, which provide a glimpse of the gentrification under way in this former immigrant neighborhood.

7:30 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) The pork soup dumplings at Joe's Shanghai, one of the most delicious meals in Chinatown, are well worth the wait for a table.

9 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes)Bring your New York City marathon to a Happy Ending in this former massage parlor. Drink a toast to the town in one of the hippest lounges on the Lower East Side.

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SAN FRANCISCO

Tackle the famous hilly city, popping into Italian delis, unique boutiques and Bohemian bookstores.

8 a.m.

wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) Don't arrive late at Mama's: by 8:30, the wait to get into this breakfast institution can be over an hour.

10 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) The trek up Telegraph Hill to Coit Tower is as breathtaking as the 360-degree views from the tower's base. Contrary to popular belief, the 1933 building was designed, not to resemble a fire hose, but simply to enhance the skyline. Don't miss the gorgeous murals in the lobby.

11 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) Take all 378 Filbert Steps - the most beautiful of the city's nearly 350 outdoor staircases- down to Levi's Plaza. The worn steps wend past picturesque cottages under a canopy of leaves.

12:45 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) FD00568_.WMF (1492 bytes)Order a cappuccino at Cafe Trieste, where Francis Ford Coppois penned his screenplay for The Godfather under the fading fresco of a Sicilian fishing village.

1 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) The caffeine kick will do you good at the century-old Molineri Delicatessen, Grab a number and relish the aroma of home-cured meats and freshly shaved Parmesan before heading to Washington Square with a classic Italian sub.

1:30 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) Washington Square, with its tree-shaded benches around a crowded expanse of lawn, is the perfect picnic spot.

2:45 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) Neighborhood hero Joe Di Maggio married his first wife at the frilly Sts. Peter and Paul Church, and it was these vows that caused jolting Joe and Marilyn Monroe to be relegated to City Hall for their nuptials - although the couple posed for photographers here.

3:30 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) On the second floor of the Bay View Bank, the North Beach Museum offers an overview of the area's ethnic and literary history, including a draft of Lawrence Ferlinghetti's poem "The Old Italians Dying."

4 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) The two blocks of Grant Avenue between Filbert and Green, once the stomping ground of the Bears, are now a gold mine of upscale clothing boutiques.

7 p.m.
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wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes) Local swillers gather at Sodini's bar, while you should join the epicureans crowding the tables for pesto lamb with linguine that would make Nonna proud.

9 p.m.
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TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes)Cab it to Bimbo's 365 Club (Columbus and Chestnut), a perfectly preserved Rat Pack-era nightclub. Grammy winner Norah Jones and bossa nova singer Bebel Gilberto are two famous headliners who have appeared here.

11 p.m.
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TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) ED00172_.WMF (2700 bytes) "Have a seat and find a book" command hand-painted signs at City Lights Booksellers, founded in 1953 by Ferlinghetti. The beloved landmark is still a mecca for readers and poets alike.

Midnight
Vesuvio

TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes) Just across Jack Kerouac Alley, the Bohemian atmosphere at the Vesuvio bar makes it the perfect place to end the day.

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SEATTLE

Braving the infamous climate and running on double doses of caffeine, you can happen upon anarchist cabals and fish in flight, upscale jewelers and rockabilly barbers, as you explore the city on Puget Sound.

9:15 a.m.
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Make like a Seattleite and order a double-whatever latte at Grand Central Bakery. If the weather's warm, head for the outdoor tables; if not, cozy up to the fireplace.

10 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) IN00022_.WMF (7324 bytes) Wander the blocks around Pioneer Square for the galleries (Flurry & Company specializes in Native American art) and funky antiques shops (Laguna is packed with vintage pottery).

11 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes) Despite its comprehensive collection, there's no denying the Seattle Art Musum's local bias. Where else would you see a found-object artwork that spells out Kurt Cobain just feet from a flawless John Singer Sargeant portrait!

Noon
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) IN00022_.WMF (7324 bytes) Tourists and locals alike swarm thes warren of shops, restaurants and food stands of Pike Place Market. At the famous seafood malls, fish-tossing mongers send the catch of the day flying.

1 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) ED00172_.WMF (2700 bytes) A self-described anarchist collective, Left Bank Books is a nexus of radical political energy. The shelves are crowded with activist tomes - and popular fiction (presumably to pay the rent) - and the walls are plastered with protest rally posters.

1:30 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) Who cares if Elliott's Oysters feels a bit touristy when it has the best raw bar in town! Sidle up and watch as more than a dozen varieties of fresh Pacific bivalves are relieved of their lids.

3 p.m.
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TN01197_.WMF (3552 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes) Built for the 1962 World's Fair, the Seattle Center includes the still-impressive Space Needle, whose observation deck perches at 520 feet, and the new Frank Gehry-designed Experience Music Project, an interactive museum.

4 p.m.
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TN00324_.WMF (13136 bytes) IN00022_.WMF (7324 bytes) Take the monorail downtown to the high-end shopping district, where stores such as Nordstrom and Cartier are elbow to gilded elbow.

5 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) FD00568_.WMF (1492 bytes) At the heart of Belltown is First Avenue, a street full of stylish furniture stores and other boutiques and the smart shoppers who frequent them. The window seats at Macrina Bakery are perfect for people-watching.

6 p.m.

wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BS00996_.WMF (1766 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes) The ground floor of the cheap-chic Ace Hotel houses a clothing boutique, a day spa, a rockabilly barbershop and Cyclops, a hip diner/bar that's ideal for an aperitif.

7:30 p.m.
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wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) End the day at Le Pichet, a lively French restaurant that serves hearty country fare - think cured ham and cheese boards - and 50 varieties of wine in little ceramic pitchers.

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WASHINGTON

Showing a soft spot for civic pomp, you can stroll among the capital's monuments and still find time for its galleries and jazz clubs.

8 a.m.
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FD00568_.WMF (1492 bytes) Begin your day with coffee and pastries under the soaring ceiling of Union Station. A grand example of Beaux Arts architecture, the 1907 train terminal had fallen into disrepair. Now, after a $160 million renovation, it's the city's most visited site.

9:30 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) IN00022_.WMF (7324 bytes) The politico-heavy Capitol Hill neighborhood is home to the Eastern Market, a daily (except Monday) flea and farmers' market that on weekends adds antiques, original art and eclectic jewelry.

10:30 a.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes) The walk on the Mall, a two-and-a-half-mile green dotted with museums and monuments, takes you past the Library of Congress, the Supreme Court and the U.S. Capitol. The Mall itself is ideal for a meander and at its far end (but worth a detour) is Maya Lin's austere Vietnam Veterans Memorial.

12:15 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes) A hit since it opened last July, the International Spy Museum exposes the history of the world's most notorious secret agents and the crafty tools of their trade. Be prepared for long lines on weekends.

2:15 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) No need to wait until happy hour: Jaleo serves tasty Spanish tapas and sangria all afternoon. On your way there, walk past Ford's Theatre, where Abraham Lincoln was assassinated in 1865. (It's still a working theater.)

3:30 p.m.
 

TN00253_.WMF (5564 bytes) ED00172_.WMF (2700 bytes) Catch a cab to Dupont Circle, a prime area for people-watching. Kramerbooks & Afterwords is popular with locals looking for a good read and a jolt of caffeine.

4:15 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) BL00323_.WMF (1448 bytes) Housed in an 1890s Georgian Revival mansion, the Phillips Collection showcases the modernist masterpieces acquired by Duncan and Marjorie Phillips. You can also check out more than 20 galleries on nearby R Street and Connecticut Avenue.

6 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) wpe9A.jpg (1417 bytes) Nora, America's first certified organic restaurant, emphasizes seasonal produce and diverse tasting menus while never sacrificing flavor for health.

8 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) EN00614_.WMF (11092 bytes) In D.C., the drama is not limited to congressional investigations. Call in advance to find out what's on at the Studio Theatre (202) 332-3300, noted for innovative stagings of contemporary works.

10:30 p.m.
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wpe9D.jpg (1170 bytes) WB00847_.GIF (325 bytes) Duke Ellington and Billie Holiday were among the legends who played the clubs on U Street. Head to Bohemian Caverns for some live jazz from the next generation of musical greats.

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